(CNN) — A large passenger jet sits silent and still on the edge of a sun-beaten track. It won’t fly again — its engines have been stripped down, its wings wrecked and weathered by time.

Nearby, shafts of sunlight pass through the smashed windows of a cavernous hangar. Everything is covered in dust and rust, a jumble of barbed wire, broken glass and sprouting weeds.

On this part of Europe’s last divided capital, time has long been frozen.